No Impact Week - 4/22/2013 & 4/28/2013

Concluding Log Lunch-esque meal

On Monday, April 22, Williams College embarked on No Impact Week, a one-week carbon cleanse that provides experimenters with a chance to see what a difference “no impact” living can have on quality of life (No Impact Project). Three local meals kicked off the week: students could dine at Mission Park for breakfast, Driscoll for lunch, and Whitmans’ for dinner and enjoy food produced within 150 miles of the college. The purpose of 150-Mile Meals was to get “students to think more deeply about where their food was coming from and how it was made, and to show that, even during the low-season (end of winter), there is still enough food in our area to produce three delicious and distinct meals” (Lexie Carr, No Impact Week Organizer). Dining Services was admirably stringent in its commitment to the 150 mile radius, excluding, for example, coffee from the menu.

At Whitmans’ dinner, I enjoyed homemade pasta with spinach and roasted garlic, hearty and toothsome “autumn” squash soup, chicken with fingerling potatoes and roasted root vegetables, and picnic-style potato and chopped apple salad. As I devoured the feast before me, a chorus of happy, appreciative student voices filled the air. 150-Mile Meals was an overwhelming success, and no wonder--Lexie subsequently filled me in on the meticulous planning that made her vision a reality.

Back in October, Lexie began brainstorming approaches for “food day” of No Impact Week, ultimately--and fortunately, for us--deciding on a dining hall meal because it would be accessible to everyone. After meeting initially with Assistant Dining Director Chris Abayasinghe  to discuss logistics, Lexie and Brent Wasser of the Sustainable Food and Agriculture Department met monthly with various representatives from Dining Services; Lexie applauded the organization for extensively researching what was available in our area, contacting farmers months in advance, preserving food from the fall, and thinking creatively about menus. Indeed, Williams is fortunate to have a committed, self-operated Dining Services because the organization’s flexibility and responsiveness enables local food-centric events such as 150-Mile Meals that would not be possible at an institution that contracts its food service to an outside organization.

On Sunday, April 28, a final No Impact Week celebration took place, as lucky diners enjoyed a student-prepared meal and discussion at the Log. As students discussed how decisions such as eating locally can enhance personal quality of life and the health of the planet, a wholesome meal of hearty lentil vegetable soup, spinach salad with roasted vegetables and avocado dressing, onion and cheese cornbread, and Swedish apple cake seemed a delicious and appropriate conclusion to the week.

 Post created in Collaboration with Williams College Sustainable Food and Agriculture Department. 

Diner Log Lunch & End of Break

I timed my first spring bike ride so that it ended outside the Log at noon on Friday—indeed, much planning went into this outdoor adventure and eating endeavor, as I had been anticipating Log Lunch all week. I hurriedly swung open the door—admittedly, the promise of delicious food imparts a frantic energy on my mannerisms—and was greeted by the savory scent of one of my favorite lunchtime combos, tomato soup and cheesy bread. This classic pairing promised decadent warmth and childhood comfort, and I felt the first spoonfuls deep within my chilled forearms. The soup was satisfyingly creamy but not cloying, sprigs of basil and small tomato chunks contributing fresh flavor to every lightly textured bite. I ripped nibblets from my open-faced cheese bread—true to tradition, the bread was made with white flour, the slightly crunchy exterior layer encasing a fluffy interior, and the melted cheese, white cheddar perhaps, clung tightly to the bread, forming the requisite greasy connection. The whole meal was reminiscent of diner food: the upscale cobb salad consisted of crunchy romaine leaves, thinly sliced hardboiled eggs, chopped tomatoes and avocados, and rich blue cheese. I went back for seconds, and then thirds, making the discovery that a ladle of soup at the bottom of the bowl topped with an equivalent amount of cobb salad made for an excellent combination, the flavorful liquid acting as a dressing of sorts. The meal culminated with seven layer bars, tantalizing mounds—globules, rather—of peanut butter, coconut shavings, chocolate, butterscotch…and seemingly from the title, a few other ingredients that invariably contributed to the irresistible sweetness of the dessert. 
Once again, the picture file "stack" has been building in size, and there are a few eating endeavors that deserve particular mention..

I am always treated to a "last supper" at home at the culmination of each visit. This time, we delighted in sweet potato-squash-star anise soup made with dad's chicken stock, a fresh salad with mustard vinaigrette, avocado, and fennel, and mom's salmon cream sauce pasta, the rich sauce made, once again, with dad's chicken stock, and additional components such as green garlic and lemon zest lending fresh flavor. 

Easter dinner at the Gaidus household occurred mere hours later. We enjoyed roasted asparagus with parmesan, rich, savory fougasse bread from Wildflour Bakery (yes, the loaf made the cross-country flight with me), arugula salad with pickled onions and green grapes, and rouladen, a traditional German dish of thinly sliced flank steak smeared with mustard and wrapped around bacon, a pickle spear, onions, simmered in wine, beef stock, diced vegetables, and tomato paste and then roasted in the oven, the juices subsequently spooned over garlic mashed potatoes. 

Log Lunch & So Much More...

Our home is now figuratively and literally a Piggy Heaven! 

I have been slacking, to say the least. A cyber-stack of photos has piled up, and the conclusion of Spring Break seems like the ideal time to get back up to speed. Here goes..
Yet another snowstorm impeded the weekly speaker from presenting at The Log, but luckily the much anticipated meal was not hindered by the volatile winter weather. In fact, the cold temperatures outside made the hearty lentil, barley and chard soup all the more appealing. Rather than a homogenous liquid, this week's "soup" was more characteristic of a decadent earthly mush, each bite bursting with varied texture and umami flavor. The salad boasted pungent flavors, as well - sharp arugula leaves coupled with succulent blood oranges, fresh carrot rounds and apple slices, crunchy pistachios, and creamy goat cheese ensured bites of great intensity, a light vinaigrette allowing the strong flavors to complement one another. The rosemary herb bread epitomized a savory side, the elastic dough coated in farm butter melting in my mouth. A final breath of winter - the apple gingerbread upside down cake was overwhelmingly warming, the spices reminiscent of a cozy hearth and merriment. Feasts like this make it difficult to acknowledge that my Log Lunch days are numbered...but for now, I'll live in the present and simply be grateful that less than one week separates me from another fresh, tantalizing meal. 

Lake Sonoma

A woefully incomplete and out-of order summary of Spring Break follows...

A "light" sampling of tripe topped with a fried egg at Geyserville's Diavola...

 ...accompanied by the restauran't specialty, pizza. Our "Bosciola" selection included house cured pork belly, sausage, mushrooms, red peppers, creamed onions, and some requisite greenery. Certainly thirst-inducing, but luckily I had some Racer 5 IPA from nearby Bear Republic Brewery to wash it down...

...and an alternative salad, charred romaine with decadent Ceasar dressing and sharp cheese, prawns on the side.

Subject to frequent documentation...Mom's chicken pot pie is a work of art. 

 A post-run lunch at Dierk's Parkside Cafe: Dad and I split the BBQ pork and bacon sandwich, and the "Gompa's" sandwich with bacon, fried egg and pesto.

Leftover pizza and Dad's specialty scramble with farm eggs, mushrooms, tortilla strips, cheese, salmon, and kale.

Hot cross buns? Wildflour Bakery's "bohemian" sticky bun, with apricots and walnuts

The Most Underrated Food in Europe, or Eating Well in England - 2/28/2013

Dr. Diane Purkiss, Fellow in English and published historian from Oxford’s Keble College, opened her presentation with audience engagement, questioning, “How many of you have eaten English food?” Many hands raised in the audience; Griffin Hall was filled with community members and students, fragrant wafts of English cheese—to be sampled and savored at the talk’s culmination—pervading the intimate atmosphere.

            “And how many of you enjoyed English food?” Diane inquired. Sheepish hands sunk into laps, and audience members chuckled discreetly. Thus began Dr. Purkiss’s presentation, titled “The Most Underrated Food in Europe, or Eating Well in England.” An “ill image” appeared on the screen: frozen and subsequently overcooked carrots and peas, limp “chips,” and heavily battered, gummy fish, the typical English meal as envisioned by many of us naïve Americans. This stereotype is perpetuated by exceedingly low quality, infamous tourist traps such as Aberdeen Steak House and “Ye Olde Cheshire Pub,” conveniently located on High Street to attract unsuspecting visitors who then document—Diane showed us some revolting website reviews as proof—and disseminate their unfortunate experiences.

            It was precisely this myth that Dr. Purkiss aimed to refute. The English, she explained, are deliberately secretive, and wary about being pinned down to one particular food culture. Dr. Purkiss neatly reversed the implications of wide culinary influence in her question to us, “What exactly is American food culture?” Just as our national cuisine reflects diverse immigrant culture, English food might be seen as a fusion, elements adapted from other locales on the European continent. Dr. Purkiss cautioned us that England should not be compared with France and Italy, as these two neighbors boast food cultures are cherished for their traditional dishes rather than lauded for innovative cuisine. English food culture, she claimed, seems to have fallen victim to the idea of authenticity; this has resulted in faux authentic products such as “Lymeswold” cheese that mimic artisanal French and Italian food but with none of the quality. Dr. Purkiss argues that English cuisine should celebrate its non-traditional incorporation of the food cultures of immigrant ethnicities—in many instances, people consume adapted dishes and do not realize that they are eating English food!

            Reputed restaurant St. Johns conveys a style of English cooking that has been preserved through the ages, maintaining aspects of ancient medieval cooking. St. Johns food is nose-to-tail—that is, all portions of the animal are celebrated and consumed—and the meat heavy menu lends to dark, masculine flavors. This is a “port and stilton cuisine,” rich, meaty dishes offset by pungent bitter greens.

Brent Wasser (Manager, Sustainable Food & Ag program)
Charlie Cao '13, and Diane Purkiss

            An interlude—“When Did it Go Wrong?”—presented detailed information about historical events that were formative, not always positively, for English food culture. By displaying old cake recipes, Dr. Purkiss also demonstrated the ways—often convoluted—that English cuisine has been passed down through the ages. Interestingly, these cakes connect directly with Dr. Purkiss’s visit to Williamstown. Avid food enthusiast Charlie Cao ’13 studied abroad at Oxford University last year, and sought Dr. Purkiss out for instruction in a food tutorial; this course culminated in Charlie baking five cakes from five centuries of British cooking. Dr. Purkiss’s sabbatical—Hemingway study on the East Coast—and Charlie’s engineering brought Dr. Purkiss to Williamstown.

            Dr. Purkiss certainly had the precise articulation of a season scholar, and her culminating descriptions of English cooking had me salivating. Umami is the definitive characteristic of English cooking—the intrinsic dark, strong flavors of pork pie and sourdough bread demonstrate that this is a man’s cuisine, not for the faint of heart. Indeed, Purkiss cited James Bond as epitome, one that preserves umami in his own person with the “Bond Breakfast” of dark, strong coffee, eggs, and hearty toast with artisanal strawberry jam. However, Bond’s adventures demonstrate that he is not an insular English person—in Turkey, he consumes traditional yoghurt, but still maintains his commitment to rich flavors and manly meal components. Menus from famous restaurants Dinner and The Ivy further conveyed these ideals. A signature “meat fruit” dish—listed as c. 1500—consisted of a mandarin, chicken liver, and foie gras parfait with grilled bread. Dr. Purkiss concluded with a testimony to English artisanal ice cream—initiated by Italian immigrants—and encouraged all us eager eaters to maintain an open mind.

Stinky Bishop cheese

            A brief word on the cheese tasting: first came long pieces of dark yellow cheddar, the body crumbling along striations much like those found in rock. This was not your supermarket cheddar, but rather Montgomery’s Cheddar, a single-family artisanal selection. “It smells like sweaty trainers, doesn’t it?” Purkiss remarked about the next cheese, aptly titled Stinking Bishop. This washed rind selection—washed with perry, pear cider—tasted mild, sumptuous, and sweet, much more delicate than its scent indicated. We finished with a Stilton, a cheese that does have a “locavore license” and must come from a particular region in Europe. The rich, creamy, and sharp cheese indeed seemed an embodiment of dark, umami flavors. Purkiss mentioned the practice of purchasing a round of Stilton, consuming the interior, and then filling the remaining external shell with port—I relished this wonderful thought for the rest of the evening. 

This post created in collaboration with the Williams College Sustainable Food and Agriculture Department. 

"March into the Sea" Log Lunch - 3/1/2013

I titled this post "March into the Sea" after a notable Modest Mouse song - it seems appropriate simply because Friday's Log Lunch ushered in the new month, and the speaker gave a disheartening yet intriguing presentation on rising sea levels that, most recently, threaten to engulf New York and New Jersey. Modest Mouse would approve of the title's mild morbidity, and I successfully skirted the generic "March Madness" heading..

I couldn't resist snapping a shot of the vibrant chalkboard

Before William alum Peter Howd spoke about "Sandy, Sea Level Rise, and Taking on Risk," we enjoyed a toothsome thai peanut sweet potato coconut curry, a rich homogenous puree that warmed me to the core. I overheard one of the head cooks mention that the vegetable order arrived with a scant six sweet potatoes, yet the addition of white bean and carrots ensured that the liquid was sufficiently hearty. Always a sucker for creamy coconut, I eagerly used my brioche roll to soak up every last drop. Indeed, the menu boasted elements from varied cuisines, and the rich yet fluffy brioche rolls were a testament to French culture. The salad was a decadent Mediterranean mix, fresh spinach coupled with roasted red peppers, garbanzo beans, sharp feta, satisfyingly salty kalamatas, and toasted pecans, a light vinegar dressing delicately infusing the melee. I failed to document dessert - somehow, it vanished! In a move of admitted insanity, I decided that in anticipation of some cookie-esque dessert, I would bring a jar of my creamy raw milk from Cricket Creek Farm to complement the sweet culmination of the meal. I lucked out. Two soft peanut butter cookies encased a tantalizing peanut butter-honey-cinnamon mixture; I gingerly ripped nuggets from the main mass and alternated sips of milk with satisfying bites. And thus, I March-ed forward.. 

Peter Howd gave an informative presentation, displaying colorful visual representations that effectively depicted the dangers of sea level changes. I happened to make eye contact with my GIS/Remote Sensing professor while Mr. Dowd was discussing a lidar - an optical remote sensing technology that analyzes spatial information based on laser light return after hitting a particular surface - map, and we shared a wonderful moment of excited recognition. Howd's presentation covered many dimensions of the damages associated with the changing sea level. He distinguished between damage potential and vulnerability, the latter pertaining to structures that are likely to be damaged by these changes and house populations that are economically at risk. Moreover, he pointed out that in this case, greater investment means greater risk - waterfront property captures the highest house prices, but these investments are becoming increasingly risky. 

And just because I'm a fiend...my meals today have been too good to be relegated to the back of my iPhoto. 

Leftover noodle from Mezze's Friday night "Noodle Bowl Special," my additions consisted of roasted squash and cabbage from Mighty Food Farm

A fresh dinner salad of baby kale and spring mix, roasted squash, carrots, beets, and potatoes with rosemary, all from MFF, egg and cheese from Cricket Creek Farm

Rebuilding the Foodshed Presentation - 2/13/2013

As a writer for the Williams Sustainable Food and Agriculture Department, I attend events put on by the program and document them via photographs and writing. Below is an article that I wrote about a recent presentation by author and professor Philip Ackerman-Leist. 

Philip Ackerman-Leist is all about the practical. On the evening of Wednesday, February 13^th, author and professor Ackerman-Leist delivered a talk on his recent book Rebuilding the Foodshed: How to Create Local, Sustainable, and Secure Food Systems. Roughly 25 attendees, an even mix of students and community members, gathered in brightly lit Griffin Hall, eager to learn about practical application of the “local” buzzword—how can we build regional food systems that are affordable, sustainable, and resilient?

         Ackerman-Leist established Green Mountain College’s farm and sustainable agriculture program, born from his vision of integrating hands-on food production and education into the curriculum. He serves as a professor of the college and the director of the Green Mountain Farm & Food Project. His recent book bears the sub-title “Community Resilience Guide,” and it is this principle that Ackerman-Leist promotes in the text. He encourages readers and listeners such as us to engage deeply in “systems thinking” and critically examine how we can apply the word “local” to a regional level.

         Extracting a single carrot from his jean pocket, Ackerman-Leist began his talk by describing the characteristics of the weathered orange vegetable. Indeed, the carrot was well worn from days of travel, yet Ackerman-Leist looked beyond the physical; he was concerned with the production, processing, and distribution processes that delivered this single vegetable to his hand. Following this introduction, Ackerman-Leist delved into the evolution of his thinking about the word “local.”

         “Does anyone know where the word foodshed came from?” he questioned the audience. “From watershed,” a voice replied, half-joking because the direct connection appeared obvious, yet the deeper meaning required further explanation. Indeed, this assumption proved correct. US EPA designates a watershed as an “area of land where all of the water that is under it or drains off of it goes into the same place,” a definition that characterizes an area based on what resources are available locally. Ackerman-Leist consequently pointed out that stakeholders have traditionally been concerned with protecting the watershed of their region, but are becoming increasingly invested in conserving the foodshed via the celebration and procurement of local bounty.

         “Foodshed is new democracy, not just new economy,” Ackerman-Leist pointed out. Defining nourishment as a community empowerment tool is not a novel concept, but an important one—Ackerman-Leist took this pillar of the food movement one step further by suggesting that healthy food might be conceived as an inalienable human right, on par with water and shelter. Obtaining healthy food for all people is a community-based goal; Ackerman-Leist decried the individualism inherent in the idea of “voting with your fork.”

         After some historical background on agricultural production, processing, and distribution in the United States, Ackerman-Leist addressed the flaws in our current food system. A telling chart first displayed the obstacles that minority farm owners face: they receive lower government subsidies, farm less acreage, and obtain less sales revenue than their native counterparts. Next, a pie chart described the “Total Energy Directly and Indirectly Consumed on U.S. Farms, 2002[1],” listing a total of 1.7 quadrillion BTUs used, 29% of that allocated toward fertilizers. Noting the magnitude of this energy sink, Ackerman-Leist refuted the tendency to view the food movement through a bifocal lens—we cannot have local trump organic, as both of these features are integral to protecting our foodsheds and our planet. Food processing conditions are also a cause for serious concern. A North Carolina native, Ackerman-Leist illustrated this flaw with a close-to-home example: in Hamlet, NC on September 3^rd, 1991, locked doors and a fire at a poultry processing plant led to the deaths of many workers trapped inside. A look at fuel efficiency for distribution again exemplifies the necessity of a wide-angled approach to fixing our food system. In terms of fuel efficiency, boats, trains, and semis are the most efficient distribution vehicles—and farmer’s pickups are the least efficient.

         This slide enabled a seamless transition into the next section of Ackerman-Leist’s presentation. His solution ideas embodied the importance of practical aggregation, processing, and distribution models. For example, community markets, are shared and managed by community members, represent an entity that does not return a substantial profit on sales, but allows connections between producer and consumer, an invested middleman acting as the distributor. Similarly, “food hub” distributors buy from a large crop of small farmers within a regional food system and sell to consumers; this model “scales up” sustainably. Indeed, Ackerman-Leist stressed the importance of both aggregation and improved processing techniques: in terms of U.S. food energy consumption, household refrigeration and preparation is by far the largest energy user, and 40% of food is wasted, some of this figure representing food that does not even reach the consumer. Disturbingly, 97% of this wasted food does not get “put back” so that it can be utilized as compost—anaerobic digestion of excreta and other organics is an important component of the food system, and one that could be well suited to local municipalities. Institutional purchasing of local foods is also a “wonderfully complicated” aggregation and distribution model, one that has myriad potential benefits for both the farmer and the institution. Residential Williams dining provides an appropriate context for envisioning institutional impact on our local foodshed.

         Audience members asked concluding questions, and an inquiry about how to keep momentum yielded the response, “Build like hell. As fast as we can while it’s hot,” from Ackerman-Leist. He emphasized the with our culture’s impatience, vigilance is one of the most important features associated with rebuilding our foodshed so that it is practical, sustainable, and resilient.

*This entry was created in collaboration with the Williams College Sustainable Food and Agriculture Department. 

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[1] This figure is old but similar to the current one, Ackerman-Leist explained. 

The Clash: Storm Nemo Meets Log Lunch - 2/9

Storm Nemo prevented Jeff Goodell, Rolling Stone contributing writer, from speaking at spring semester's first Log Lunch. In place of his planned talk on climate change politics in Obama's second term, lunch-goers viewed a speedily constructed slideshow on our California Agriculture adventure. Amidst our January experience, Professor Art had inquired about the prospect of our group giving a Log Lunch presentation; all slots were full yet we were on deck should there be any cancellations. Our tight-knit group relished re-living the trip through still images. I hope Jeff Goodell will speak at Log Lunch when the weather permits, for I was greatly looking forward to his presentation and know that it would make an interesting and informative post topic; this semester, I plan to document not only the delicious lunches but also the presentations of the engaging speakers. But in the meantime...

Mushrooms and wild rice formed the base of the hearty soup, and the welcoming blackboard enthusiastically proclaimed that this dish was the signature of the co-head cook's family, designed and consumed particularly for its warming properties. The cooks couldn't have picked a better day to serve this toothsome stew - as I waited eagerly in line outside the rustic building, the ominous gray skies and initial snowflakes of Storm Nemo gave me a carnal craving for something hot and hearty. The thick, delightfully textured liquid boasted umami, earthy flavors from the mushrooms and soft root vegetables. The rice and vegetable melee did not really necessitate additional starch in each mouthful, but I couldn't resist the temptation of dipping the doughy "chill-iabatta" bread into the rich broth. The salad contained crisp spinach, sliced apples, candied pecans, and fennel slivers, and it contributed a satisfying freshness to the meal. Lunch culminated with a decadent slice of chocolate cake; my gargantuan piece was dense but not cloying, nut chunks and bittersweet chocolate protecting the slab from excessive sweetness. This meal embodied winter bounty, which I am beginning to appreciate fully. This season, I am embracing the winter with both my mind and consumption; I am making an effort to eat almost entirely from my two CSAs, even if this means root vegetable overload, and get outside despite the frigid temperatures.

The view on one of my hikes

Over my four years here, I have come to recognize that outside activity is key to my happiness, and I started an initiative I call "Celeste's daily hour outside." To fulfill the goals of this program, I am taking the Williams Outing Club snowshoeing and nordic skiing classes, and I have been on multiple hikes--including the weekly "Sunrise Hike," which departs 6am every Friday morning--in breathtaking scenery around Williamstown. Already, I feel myself gaining appreciation for the still peacefulness of the snow-covered earth.
And of course, it helps when one has delicious eats to prepare after a brisk walk. I can't resist documenting some of the tasty meals I have consumed; my time outside makes me feel as if I have earned the right to appreciate the season fully. Some of the recent meals I have prepared and consumed...

Grilled cheese with bread and cheese from Cricket Creek Farm, and roasted beets from Mighty Food Farm

Salad with an eight-minute egg and cheese from Cricket Creek Farm, roasted acorn squash and carrot pieces from Might Food Farm